Showing posts with label focal length. Show all posts
Showing posts with label focal length. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Top 5 Posts about Camera Settings

In honor of the New Year, Boost Your Photography will spend the month of January featuring collections of top posts across a variety of topics. This opening post will cover top posts explaining specifics of camera settings. Other top posts cover apertureexposurephone photographyDIY photography hackscompositionlenses and accessoriestop photography ideas, and macro photography.

Top Posts about Camera Settings





  • Depth of FieldDepth of Field: it's more than just aperture. Depth of field is the area of the photograph in focus, and this post will highlight all the various components of photography that can impact the depth of field in your final photograph.

Want more great ideas? Follow Boost Your Photography on Pinterest: Boost Your Photography





Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is now available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.

Monday, January 6, 2014

Top 5 Informational Photography Posts on Boost Your Photography

http://www.boostyourphotography.com/2014/01/top5-aboutphotography.html

This second post in our Top 5 countdown of Top 5 posts will feature the Top 5 Informational Photography Posts from 2013 on Boost Your Photography. (Yesterday's post was The Top 5 Travel Photography Posts of 2013.)  Many of these posts were featured as part of our series geared toward beginners, variously subtitled "Things Experts Forget to Tell You" or "Things that Your Forgot You Had to Learn." While many of these posts are geared towards photographers who are first learning how to use their DSLR camera, even those of us more experienced photographers may find something of value.

#5: Keeping Your Camera and Sensor Clean

http://www.boostyourphotography.com/2013/08/clean-camera.html

Camera maintenance is a critically important, and often overlooked, part of photography. Your camera is constantly exposed to different situations, weather, and circumstances, all of which can negatively impact your photographs down the line. Read about Keeping Your Camera and Sensor Clean to learn how best to protect yourself and your camera, and how to deal with the expected and unexpected hazards along the way.


http://www.boostyourphotography.com/2013/06/all-about-exposure.html

This two part series on exposure included All about Exposure and More on Exposure: how to fix common exposure problems. Exposure is a complicated topic, and entire books have been written about it. (One such book, Understanding Exposure, was included in my list of favorite photography books and authors.) These two posts provide a thorough introduction to the topic of exposure, including a discussion of correct and creative exposure. You will also find advice for getting the right exposure in a given circumstance and tricks like using the AE Lock button or bracketing your shots (as shown in the moon shots, above).

#3: How Long Does Your Camera's Battery Last?

http://www.boostyourphotography.com/2013/07/battery-life.html

Your camera's battery is essential. Do you know how long your camera's battery will last? This post explains a simple method for finding out (hinted at in the photos above), as well as practical advice for maintaining battery life and keeping your batteries working well for a long time.

#2: Why Won't My Lens Focus?

http://www.boostyourphotography.com/2013/05/why-wont-my-lens-focus.html

Focus was one of the issues I struggled with immediately when I started using my DSLR for the first time. Turned out that I was missing out on some very basic facts about lenses and focusing that could have cleared up a lot of my problems immediately. This post explores the importance of focusing, where to focus, and why your lens might not focus when you think it should.

#1: Aperture and the F/Stop Conundrum

http://www.boostyourphotography.com/2013/09/aperture.html

The number one Informational Photography Post on Boost Your Photography was Aperture and the F/Stop Conundrum, the first in a series of four posts about aperture. The rest of the posts covered What an Aperture of F/1.8 Can Do for You, What an Aperture of F/22 Can Do for You, and the Middle Range Apertures: f/8 to f/11.

For a very long time, I found the language used around aperture to be very confusing: the bigger vs. smaller, wider vs. narrower, shallower vs. wider depth of field all served to deepen my confusion instead of my understanding. This series of posts sought to alleviate this confusion and explain the f/stop conundrum once and for all.

Missed one of the Top 5 Top 5 posts?





Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is now available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Learn Your Camera Lens: the lens itself

This is another article in an occasional series aimed at beginners called “Things Experts Forgot to Tell You” or “Things that You Forgot you had to Learn.” Read more of this series here.

The previous article about camera lenses provided an overview of the naming conventions of camera lenses as well as a translation to use in decoding all the various abbreviations in lens names. This article will walk you through the basic features of a DSLR camera lens and provide an overview of each of the important labels, switches, and features.

Introduction to a Camera Lens

There are many important pieces of information that you will find written onto the body of your camera lens. The first is the name of the lens itself, such as Canon EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II SLR (below on the left) or Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Nikkor Zoom Lens. Read Camera Lenses: What’s in a Name? for a more detailed treatment of camera lens names.
These are my first two lenses, sold as part of a kit with the Canon T1i body. You can refer to these images to find the features described below, but it is more useful if you have your own lens(es) in front of you to refer to.

A second piece of information written onto the lens is the focal length. This is often in the name of the camera as well as written on the barrel of the lens, often near where the lens attaches to your camera body. A prime lens will have just one focal length (such as 50 mm), while a zoom lens will list a range of focal lengths (such as 18-55 mm).

If you have a zoom lens, the largest adjustable cylinder on the lens' body will allow you to adjust the focal length. You will see a range of focal lengths listed, often from widest to narrowest, on the cylinder itself. Rotating the cylinder all the way in one direction will give you your widest focal length (such as 18 mm), while rotating the cylinder all the way in the other direction will give you your narrowest focal length (such as 55 mm). Whether this rotation is clockwise or counterclockwise depends on the manufacturer of your lens. If you look down at your camera lens while rotating, you will see some sort of mark (white line on Canon lenses) that points to which focal length you have currently selected.

When using a modern lens, this information about focal length will be recorded by your camera and stored as part of the image. If you right-click on an image file in Windows and select 'Properties,' you can choose the 'Details' tab and see all of the EXIF information stored with your file, including the focal length that the lens was set to at the time. To find the same information on a Mac, you need to control-click on the image and select 'Get Info.'

If you purchase a longer zoom lens (with a fairly wide range), then it may come equipped with a 'lock' switch. This switch allows you to lock the lens in its most compact position (often the widest aperture). This is particularly useful when carrying around your camera, as it prevents the entire lens from randomly zooming out to its longest length. A lock is unnecessary on a prime lens and is not always a feature on starter lenses.

Learn Your Camera Lens: part 2 the lens | Boost Your Photography

The smaller adjustable cylinder on your camera lens is the focal ring. If your camera is set to autofocus, then the camera will direct the lens to adjust this ring until it achieves focus. If your camera is set to manual focus, then you will rotate this ring in order to achieve focus. Older lenses or those intended for manual focus, may have written indicators on the focal ring that tell you the approximate distance (usually in feet for a US manufactured lens) to the object in focus. On the Tamron lens above, you can see that the lens is currently focused to infinity but can go down to 0.49 meters or 1.6 feet.

Speaking of manual focus and autofocus, there is an important switch that controls those, which is located on the camera lens. It is often a little push switch with two labels: AF (autofocus) and MF (manual focus). You should always leave this switch pushed over to AF unless you have a reason for using manual focus. There is usually an indicator on your camera's rear display that will let you know if you have switched your lens into manual focus mode.

The second switch on many cameras is for image stabilization (also called vibration control or vibration reduction) and can be switched either on or off. In most circumstances, you will want to leave this turned on. The only time you might want to turn off the stabilization function is if you are using a tripod. Because a stabilized camera 'expects' some form of motion, it can actually add motion to your shot if you are using a tripod to hold the camera perfectly steady. If you do turn stabilization off when using a tripod, I recommend turning it back on again right when you are finished.

There is another important indicator related to focus that is written on your camera lens. This is known as the minimum focusing distance, and it is the number (in feet and meters) that follows the little tulip flower symbol. The minimum focusing distance tells you the closest you can be to your subject while still being able to focus. If you move closer to your subject, your camera will be unable to find focus and the autofocus will hunt around (and occasionally make strange sounds. Read more in Why Won’t My Lens Focus?). This is another one of those extremely useful pieces of information that often do not get explained when you buy your first camera and lenses and knowing it can save you a lot of frustration and confusion down the line.

A final useful indicator on your camera lens is the diameter (in millimeters) of the lens. This measurement is indicated with the Ø symbol. You will need to know the diameter of your lens in order to purchase the correct filters. (More on filters in the next article on accessories.)

Summary: about camera lenses

You can learn a lot from your lens, and there are several important features and adjustments available. Your lens can often do more than simply focus or zoom in and out. Now that you know about features like the 'lock' mechanism or the auto/manual focus switch, you may find you are using them more often. The last article in this short series on lenses will describe some of the most common accessories for lenses and which you may need.





Want to learn more? Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is now available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.

Sunday, September 8, 2013

Zooming vs. Cropping: perspective in photography

One of the most basic decisions when taking a photograph is what to include within the frame, and countless books, articles, and blog posts have been written about composition within that frame. But one often overlooked aspect of this discussion is the difference between zooming and cropping when getting to the final composition.

A wide shot in the process of being cropped down to a closer-in shot.

Zooming, of course, is changing the length of your lens to create the final composition (whether on a point-and-shoot, DSLR, or any camera in-between). Zooming happens in the field, while you are taking a photograph. Cropping, on the other hand, is changing the photograph itself, after it has been taken, by selecting a smaller section of the original photograph to make the final image. Zooming happens with your lens or with your feet; cropping happens on your computer.

The distinction matters for several reasons. One is that cropping decreases the amount of pixels in your final image, which can impact how well you can blow up and display or print the final image. The second is that how you choose your zoom (based on where you stand) impacts the perspective of the final photograph, while cropping does not. Wide angle lenses (or wide focal lengths) tend to expand and distort perspective, while zoom lenses (and narrower focal lengths) tend to compress a scene and make objects seem relatively closer together. These different focal lengths can greatly change the perspective of your scene.

Why does changing perspective matter? Let me illustrate with an example.

I recently retired my car. After fifteen years and nearly 150,000 miles, it was time to start seriously considering a different car before the next winter set in. Decisions were made, and the weekend came to say goodbye to my old car. As a goodbye, I decided to take it for a last spin and photo shoot down by the lake.

I wanted to take a 'car portrait' with the lake and trees as the backdrop, so I decided to take a series of shots at different zoom lengths to see which one offered the best perspective. To accomplish this, I had to zoom with my lens as well as my feet. For the first image, at 18 mm (the widest focal length for the lens I was using), I was standing very close to the car, slightly in the road itself. For the 35 mm shot, I had to back up to just across the road. This gave me the same compositional placement as the first shot (with the car the same approximate size within the frame). Then I repeated the process of backing up and taking another picture at 50, 100, 150, 200, and 270 mm (the maximum zoom amount for the lens I was using).

Zooming Vs. Cropping: perspective in photography | Boost Your Photography
Impact of changing focal length (and backing up) on perspective.

This collage shows six of those images, each shot at the same ISO (100) and aperture (f/16). The top row of shots was shot at a shutter speed of 1/100th of a second, and the bottom row of shots was shot at 1/60th of a second (to make the darker tree backdrop a little lighter). The differences between each of the shots are purely a result of the changing perspective from each of the different focal lengths.

Comparison of 18 mm and 35 mm focal lengths on perspective

The differences are quite apparent when comparing the widest shot, 18 mm, with the next widest shot, 35 mm. The 35 mm length is considered to be most similar to the view and perspective that is captured by our eyes, and this photograph matches how the car 'naturally' looked to me at the time. The wider 18 mm view creates distortion in closer objects, which exaggerates the lines of the front of the car in particular. This view of cars is often used to make them seem large, grand, or imposing, as the car seems to dominate over the wide views in the background.

This distortion of objects at wide focal lengths can create problems when photographing portraits. While a distorted look is common in photographs of cars, a wide angle and up-close photograph of a person is far less flattering and tends to over-emphasize features, making noses look large or faces look wide. This is why lens in the 85-120 mm lengths are often referred to as 'portrait' lenses: these focal lengths give a perspective of the human face that is considered more flattering.

But back to the discussion of cropping. While I can crop an image I took from farther away to make it look like I was standing closer to that object or using a longer zoom, cropping cannot replicate the changes in perspective from actually standing closer to that object.

Same image file, as originally shot (left) and cropped down (right)

The photograph on the left was taken with the 18 mm focal length while I was standing at the same location as the 270 mm version with the car in the same relative position in the frame as in the series above. The photograph on the right was cropped from the photograph on the left to create the same relative position and size of the car in the frame.

Comparison of 270 mm shot (left) and 18 mm shot from same location, cropped (right)

This image compares the zoomed in shot at 270 mm (on the left) with the shot cropped in version from the 18 mm to imitate the composition of the 270 mm shot (on the right). The loss of pixels and therefore clarity and detail is evident between the two. The 270 mm shot is 4752 x 3168 pixels, while the cropped version is only 357 x 238 pixels. You should also notice that the perspective between the two shots is unchanged. Cropping in a shot does not change the perspective of the shot. Only zooming in or out for the shot and moving your feet changes the perspective.

Comparison of 35 mm and 270 mm focal lengths on perspective

Standing in one location (such as where I took the 270 mm shot) and changing the zoom on your lens will make photographs that are different. It will not, however, make photographs that have any differences in perspective. The relative locations and impact of the foreground and the background will remain the same. If you want to change the perspective, if you want to emphasize one object over another or influence their relationships to each other, you will need to change your zoom and move your feet.

Moving your feet can impact your photography in many ways. Read up on aperture and how moving your feet can improve your shots here: Remember the Background and Move your Feet.