Monday, January 12, 2015

Top Posts on Phone Photography

In honor of the New Year, Boost Your Photography is spending the month of January featuring collections of top posts across a variety of topics. Today's post highlights top posts about phone photography. Previous top posts have  covered camera settings, aperture, exposure, DIY photography hacks, composition, lenses and accessories, top photography ideas, and macro photography.


Top Posts on Phone Photography


  • Must Have Photography Camera Apps. This post focuses on Android and Apple apps for taking pictures with your phone. Each app is explained in detail, along with an overview and screenshots, to help you find the perfect camera app for you.

  • Must Have Photography Processing Apps. Take your phone photographs to the next level with this incredible selection of photography processing apps. These apps will allow you to get exactly the look you want in your photographs as well as add creative features like text, borders, and even collages.

  • Must Have Apps to Assist Your Photography. This final app-tastic post highlights a variety of useful apps that can aid your photography. These apps will help you plan your shots, plan ahead for your shots, and add light and other effects.

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Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is now available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.

Saturday, January 10, 2015

Using Directional Lighting

For the month of January, the 2014 version of Boost Your Photography: 52 Weeks Challenge will be focusing on light and lighting. (Interested in joining the 52 Weeks Challenge? We are also starting a re-boot version kicking off from the beginning: click here to join in for 2015!)

Last week we looked at natural light and how to consider both the time of day as well as the quality of the light. This week we will expand that understanding with an introduction to directional lighting and how it can influence your photographs.

Basic Types of Directional Lighting

The "direction" of your lighting refers to the interaction between your light source (the sun or any artificial lighting), your subject, and your camera. The terminology used describes the location of the light in relationship to your subject, not to you as the photographer.


The most common types of directional lighting are front lighting, side lighting, and back lighting. Diffused lighting occurs when light is scattered and does not seem to come from a discernible location (think, a cloudy day with dim light and no shadows). You can read more about diffused lighting in last week's post about Ideas for Natural Light Photography.

Front Lighting

Front lighting is probably the most common form of directional lighting in photography. With front lighting, the light is shining from behind you, as the photographer, and it is illuminating the front of your subject. Front lighting eliminates most shadows as it evenly illuminates your subject.


Front lighting is in evidence in this photograph above of Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park. The different terraces are all receiving sunlight directly, and the only shadows are small and result from the height of the sun in the sky.

Front lighting is often criticized for making subjects appear "flat" or less interesting, because the lack of shadows give less of a feel of volume or three-dimensions. (Read more about Form and Volume here.)

On the other hand, front lighting is often used quite often in landscape or portrait photography, when the purpose is to equally illuminate a subject. Depending on what look you want in a portrait, many of us would be quite content to eliminate the look of shadows and added-dimension (think: wrinkles or bags under the eyes, for example).

Side Lighting

With side lighting, the light moves from facing directly at your subject to coming off from either side. As a photographer, you want to think about keeping the light off to the side of either of your shoulders. Light coming directly side-on at your subject (a 90 degree angle) will tend to over-exaggerate shadows and dimension, whereas portrait photographers often use an approximately 45 degree angle between the light and the subject for a dramatic look.


Side lighting is also common in still life photography and mimics the look of famous still life paintings as well. In this photograph of the orange and clementines, the light was coming through a nearby window at around 45 degrees to the subject. You can tell this most easily by looking at the brightest spot reflected by the peels - a front-lit orange would have the spot directly centered, while a 90-degree light would have the spot exactly on the right-hand side.

Side lighting is used to add texture and dimension to your photograph. (You can read more about Texture as an Element of Visual Design here.) You can see how the main shadows of the fruit give a sense of its shape and its three-dimensional nature. The side lighting also illuminates all the different little freckles and dimples in the peel, which provide that texture and interest. Side lighting is often used to add drama or strong emotion to a scene or portrait, and it is commonly combined with black and white processing.

Back Lighting

The final main category of directional lighting is back lighting. In back lighting, you light source is located directly behind your subject (which often means that it is shining directly into your camera lens). You will want to experiment with moving your camera around slightly, relative to your subject and the lighting, to avoid overpowering your image by including the light source directly.


These two photographs provide a comparison of the difficulties of using back lighting. With the composition above, the sun itself is in the photograph, and its brightness overpowers the entire corner of the image where it is located. There is also evidence of sun flare (that bright purplish spot near the middle in the bottom) that impacts the image.


By contrast, in this photograph, the sun is shining just off the left-hand corner of the image. By not including the sun within the frame, it is easier to properly expose for the entire photograph.

Back lighting is used most commonly right around sunrise or sunset, as the low angle of the sun makes it easier to place it behind your subject. The back lighting here adds drama to the frozen plants as well as the golden glow of morning light. With portraits, back lighting is often used to provide what is known as "rim lighting" or that glowing light behind loose hair.


Back lighting is also used to create interesting and dramatic silhouettes. To create a silhouette, you want to position yourself so that your subject is blocking the light source. Here, you can see the location of the early-morning sun from its reflection in the lake. By positioning the tree directly blocking it, the tree and shore become black silhouettes, as do the two soaring birds.

Watch Your Lighting

Pay attention to the direction and angle of your lighting this week, whether you are shooting indoors or out. Try moving yourself, your subject, or your lighting to consider different arrangements and relationships between the three. See how it impacts your photography and find the look that works best for you!

Share a link or a photograph in the comments below, or consider joining the BYP 52 Weeks Google+ Community (or the brand-new 52 Weeks 2015) to share your weekly photograph and see what others are capturing.





Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Top 5 Posts on Exposure

In honor of the New Year, Boost Your Photography is spending the month of January featuring collections of top posts across a variety of topics. Today's post highlights top 5 posts about exposure. Previous top posts have  covered camera settings, aperture, phone photography, DIY photography hacks, composition, lenses and accessories, top photography ideas, and macro photography.

Top Posts on Exposure


  • Demystifying the Histogram. The histogram is an incredibly useful tool in your photography. Find out how to use your histogram to interpret your exposure and get exactly the shot you want.

  • All about Exposure. This introduction to exposure clarifies the terminology of exposure and the differences between correct, creative, and equivalent exposure.


  • Explaining Exposure and Exposure Compensation. Exposure compensation is a powerful tool for adjusting your exposure in-camera while shooting. Find out how to use the exposure compensation graph and see comparative examples.


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Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is now available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.

Monday, January 5, 2015

Top 5 Posts on Aperture

In honor of the New Year, Boost Your Photography is spending the month of January featuring collections of top posts across a variety of topics. Today's post highlights top 5 posts about aperture. Previous top posts have  covered camera settings, exposure, phone photography, DIY photography hacks, composition, lenses and accessories, top photography ideas, and macro photography.

Top Posts on Aperture


  • Aperture. This top-ranked aperture post includes a useful visual graph that summarizes the entire range of the aperture spectrum, including changes in the amount of light recorded and how much of the photograph will be in focus.

  • Aperture and the F/Stop Conundrum. Do f/stops confuse you? This introductory post on aperture clarifies the language of aperture and its connection to light and f/stops. The next three posts break this information down to focus on a specific segment of the aperture spectrum. 

  • What an Aperture of F/1.8 Can Do for You. Get a handle on aperture by focusing in on the wide end of the aperture spectrum. Find out the benefits of wide aperture and how to get those out-of-focus bokeh background shots.


  • What an Aperture of F/22 Can Do for You. The narrow end of the aperture spectrum provides a wide field of focus but requires a longer shutter speed or higher ISO. Find out how to balance those demands for that perfect shot.


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Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is now available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.

Saturday, January 3, 2015

Ideas for Natural Light Photography

For the month of January, the Boost Your Photography: 52 Weeks Challenge will be focusing on light and lighting. What better place to start then with natural light? This post will explain some of the basics of photographing in natural light situations. (Interested in joining the 52 Weeks Challenge? We are starting a re-boot version kicking off from the beginning. Click here to join in for 2015!)


Why Natural Light

Shooting in natural light means learning and understanding the daily and seasonal changes in the sun and the quality of sun light in different times and places. Natural light is also a great way to learn about the power of light and lighting before worrying about manipulating light with indoor lighting or flashes.

Shooting with natural light does not mean that you can only shoot outdoors. Many, many fabulous natural lighting images are shot inside using windows for ambient lighting. Don't let cold weather or a desire to stay inside keep you from making amazing natural light photographs.

To truly understand natural light and how to use it best in your photographs, it is important to recognize the different types of natural lighting. The next section will discuss the different times of day and the quality of natural light at those times.

The Blue Hour


The Blue Hour is that time for a while just before sunrise and just after sunset when the sky glows with magnificent blue tones. Blue Hour light is extremely flattering for shooting glimmering cities, glowing carnival rides, and shimmering fireworks displays. The contrast between the blue tones of the fading sun light and the bright colors of artificial light bring another level of interest to your photograph. Read more about Blue Hour Photography here.

Subjects to seek out during the Blue Hour include



The Golden Hour


Far better known than its blue counterpart is the Golden Hour. The Golden Hour is a period of around an hour centered on the timing of sunrise and sunset each day. (Read more about a useful app for predicting and using Golden Hour light in the article Must Have Apps to Assist Your Photography.)

Golden Hour light is universally adored by photographers for the warm, golden tones that it adds to a given scene or subject. Golden Hour light also creates long shadows and angular light, which can add subtle definition and depth to your photograph as well.


These two photographs were taken at the same location two days apart. The first was taken during a cloudy, overcast morning, while the second was taken during the full bright light of a Golden Hour sunrise. You can see the immediate impact of the golden light and how it brings out the richness and color of the leaves.

Subjects to seek out during the Golden Hour include


Harsh Midday Lighting


Some photographers claim that they only shoot during the Golden Hour and find the harsher from-above lighting of the middle of the day inappropriate for photography, but I disagree. Midday photography is an interesting time to explore the power of harsh overhead light. 

Subjects to seek out during harsh midday lighting include

Diffused Lighting


This one is more of a type-of-day rather than a time-of-day. Diffused lighting situations occur when light is being bounced around from many places rather than coming from a single direction. Cloudy and overcast days feature diffused lighting. (An inability to find a distinct shadow is a hallmark of diffused lighting.)

Subjects to seek out with diffused lighting include
  • Fog and mist - think nature, roads, bridges, or other subjects that can appear and disappear to lend depth and mystery to your photograph
  • Portraits (Read Portrait Photography Basics)
  • Macro or close-up shots - think jewelry or food photography, where a lack of dramatic shadows brings even lighting

Shoot in Natural Light

Bring your photography out into the light this week by working towards using natural light in your images. Spend some time outdoors or indoors and see how the light varies and impacts your photography.

Share a link or a photograph in the comments below, or consider joining the BYP 52 Weeks Google+ Community (or the brand-new 52 Weeks 2015) to share your weekly photograph and see what others are capturing.





Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Top 5 Posts about Camera Settings

In honor of the New Year, Boost Your Photography will spend the month of January featuring collections of top posts across a variety of topics. This opening post will cover top posts explaining specifics of camera settings. Other top posts cover aperture, exposure, phone photography, DIY photography hacks, composition, lenses and accessories, top photography ideas, and macro photography.

Top Posts about Camera Settings





  • Depth of Field. Depth of Field: it's more than just aperture. Depth of field is the area of the photograph in focus, and this post will highlight all the various components of photography that can impact the depth of field in your final photograph.

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Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is now available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.

Saturday, December 27, 2014

Manual Mode in Photography - go for it!

This month's Boost Your Photography: 52 Weeks Challenge - Shooting Modes - has been leading up to this point: full manual mode. Manual mode is far less intimidating than it may appear at first. This post will walk you through the basics of how to use manual mode to your advantage. (Missed out on the earlier shooting mode posts? Catch up by reading about program mode, shutter priority mode, and aperture priority mode.)


Manual Mode

Manual mode puts you, the photographer, in charge of all of the settings involved in your final image. While this might sound like a lot of responsibility, it is actually only a small step up from shooting in aperture or shutter priority modes. In those modes, you choose two of the three major settings, while the camera chooses the third. (There are, of course, many other settings within your camera, but you can read more about those settings elsewhere in Missed the Shot? Remember Camera Zero.)

In manual mode, you choose all three settings: ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. But you are not simply pulling numbers out of thin air. You have two different strategies that you can use when shooting in manual mode: using your light meter or using the 'rule' of Sunny f/16. Each of these options is explained in detail below.

Using Your Light Meter in Manual Mode

The first option for choosing your settings in manual mode is to rely on your camera's internal light meter. When shooting in any mode other than manual, your camera relies on its light meter to determine the correct exposure for the given composition. When shooting in manual, the light meter still provides an estimation of the correct exposure. (Read more here about correct exposure.)


The light meter line graph is visible through your viewfinder when you are shooting. Different camera brands and models will have slightly different displays, but the main idea behind the light meter graph is the same.

If the flashing arrow under the line is pointing to zero, it means that the camera's light meter has determined that your composition is correctly exposed. A negative value means that the composition is too dark (according to the light meter) and a positive value means that the image is too bright.

This is where you, as the photographer, come into play. You now get to decide how you want to change either the ISO, aperture, and/or shutter speed to get the exposure that you want. You do not have to "agree" with your camera and choose values that will give an exact zero, according to the light meter, but it is a useful guide if you are unsure about which settings to use.

Quick Aside about the Exposure Triangle

You can find a lot of information and long digressions about the exposure triangle, but the key point is that you can change the exposure value (as recorded by the light meter) for a given picture in one of three ways: you can change the ISO, the aperture, or the shutter speed. (Sound familiar?) Many people picture this as a triangle-shaped graph with all three variables on it, but I have never found that visualization particularly useful.


I prefer to think about it situationally. Lets say that your meter says your photograph is too dark by one stop. (Your light meter is pointing to -1.) You can ...

  • Double your ISO (say, from 100 to 200 or 400 to 800), which would increase your exposure by one stop. The trade-off is the possibility of increased noise with a higher ISO value.
  • Open up your aperture (make it wider), say from f/8 to f/5.6 or from f/4 to f/2.8, which would increase your exposure by one stop. The trade-off is a decreased depth of field (amount of the image in focus).
  • Double the time for your shutter speed (say, from 1/250th of a second to 1/125th of a second or from 1" to 2" long), which would increase your exposure by one stop. The trade-off is that a longer shutter speed might not work with a moving subject or a shaky photographer.
  • Some combination of all three.
What if you are unsure of where to even start with your settings? That brings us to the other topic I have already mentioned, the "rule" of sunny f/16.

Sunny F/16 and Manual Mode


Sunny F/16 is such a popular concept in photography, that if you Google it, you can find a plethora of t-shirts and other memorabilia with its diagram. Back in the days of film photographers, you would have to carry around a light meter as an additional piece of equipment, rather than having it handily inside your camera. So this was where the "rule" of sunny f/16 originated.




So, here's the rule (or guideline, as it were): if you are shooting on a sunny day, you can set your aperture for f/16 and then set your shutter speed as the reciprocal of your ISO. For an ISO of 100, shutter speed of 1/100th. ISO of 800, shutter speed of 1/800th. Easy.

Want to take it beyond sunny days? You can probably guess the rest of the "rules" by the t-shirt above. Somewhat overcast? F/11. Totally overcast? F/8. Bordering-on-dim overcast? F/5.6. Sunset? F/4. And a bonus: super bright snow or sand? F/22.


Each of these sets of settings will give you a starting place for your manual photography. But what if you want to shoot outside on a sunny day with a wide open aperture for effect? Rather than do all the math of counting f-stops and converting your aperture changes with how to correspondingly change your shutter speed, may I suggest my favorite method?

Guess and check.

Switch back into aperture priority mode, dial in your ISO 100 and f/1.8. Hold your shutter down halfway and take note of the suggested shutter speed. Then switch back into manual and dial in those same settings. Now you can tweak your shutter speed as needed, referring to your light meter or histogram as your guide. (Read more about Demystifying the Histogram for help.)

Shoot in Manual Mode

This week your challenge is to try shooting in manual mode. Take it step-by-step and see how it goes. Find some situations to try out the "rule" of sunny f/16 or one of its counterparts. Try relying on your light meter to get your exposure close and then tweak it to get what you want. You may be surprised at how easy it is to make the jump!

Share a link or a photograph in the comments below, or consider joining the BYP 52 Weeks Google+ Community to share your weekly photograph and see what others are capturing.





Boost Your Photography: Learn Your DSLR is available from Amazon. Get the most out of your camera with practical advice about the technical and creative aspects of DSLR photography that will have you taking beautiful pictures right away.